ReviewSafety assessment on polyethylene glycols (PEGs) and their derivatives as used in cosmetic products
Introduction
Polyethylene glycols (PEGs) and their anionic or nonionic derivatives are widely used in cosmetics as surfactants, cleansing agents, emulsifiers, skin conditioners, and humectants. They comprise a class of compounds varying in molecular weights between 200 and over 10,000. Due to their presence in many cosmetics, an evaluation of their safety is critical, the more so, as potential exposure of consumers may be chronic and extensive.
The following assessment focusses on PEGs and on anionic or nonionic PEG derivatives that are currently used in cosmetics in Europe. Relevant compounds are listed in Table 1, together with their CAS numbers, synonyms and their function in cosmetics.
Further to their use in cosmetics, many of the compounds have other applications. Available information from these uses is included in this assessment where relevant. In the pharmaceutical industry, for instance, they are used as vehicles for drugs and as ointment bases, capsules, tablet and pill binders, suppositories, liquid prescriptions, and in veterinary drugs, including parenteral, topical, ophthalmical, oral, and rectal preparations. Further applications include use as ingredients in soaps and detergents, in the textile and leather industry, in plastics and resins, in the paper industry, in printing, in the ceramics and glass industry, in the rubber, petroleum, mining and metal industries, for wood preservation and as chemical intermediates. Polyoxyethylene sorbitan esters (polysorbates) and polyethylene glycol with an average molecular weight of 6000 are permitted as food additives in various foods according to the European Parliament and Council Directive No. 95/2/EC of 20 February 1995. The WHO has set an estimated acceptable daily intake of polyethylene glycols at up to 10 mg/kg bw (FAO/WHO, 1980).
Section snippets
PEGs and PEG derivatives used in cosmetics
Polyethylene glycols (PEGs) are polymers of ethylene oxide with the generalised formula HO(CH2CH2O)n-H, and “n” indicating the average number of oxyethylene groups. They have been assigned the CAS register number 25322-68-3 and the scientific name “poly(oxy-1,2-ethanediyl)-α-hydro-ω-hydroxy”. Common synonyms are listed in Table 1.
PEGs and PEG derivatives do not represent definite chemical entities, but are mixtures of compounds with varying polymer chain lengths. The average number or the
Use levels
PEGs and PEG derivatives are used as humectants, solvents, binders, emulsion stabilizers, and viscosity-increasing agents in a wide variety of personal care products. Most common uses for PEG and PEG derivatives include those in toothpaste, skin lotions, deodorant sticks, shaving creams, hand creams, face makeup, cream rouge, blush, mascara, lipsticks, bath products, and hair care products. Maximum use levels with product type examples are given in Table 1. The information is based on
Absorption
PEGs can be absorbed by the gastrointestinal tract with the fraction absorbed being dependent on the molecular weight of the compound. PEG-8 is well absorbed via the gastrointestinal tract and approximately 50% of the administered dose is excreted via the urine in humans within 24 h (Chadwick et al., 1977, Shaffer et al., 1950). Likewise, an extensive absorption of PEG-4 and PEG-6 via the oral route can be assumed, while less than 10% of PEG-75 and less than 2% of the greater molecular weight
Discussion
The PEGs and most of their derivatives under review here have low mammalian toxicity following single or repeated exposure with generally decreasing toxicity as the molecular weight is increased. The biological activity varies with the size of the hydrophobic and hydrophilic domain and the balance between them.
Low molecular weight PEGs and some of their derivatives may be absorbed by the gastrointestinal tract and may penetrate the skin, whereas all PEGs are capable of penetrating injured skin
Conclusion
This assessment focusses on polyethylene glycols (PEGs) and on anionic or nonionic PEG derivatives, which are currently used in cosmetics in Europe. These compounds are used in a great variety of cosmetic applications because of their solubility and viscosity properties, and because of their low toxicity. The PEGs, their ethers, and their fatty acid esters produce little or no ocular or dermal irritation and have extremely low acute and chronic toxicities. They do not readily penetrate intact
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